Front Suspension Geometry Thread

With standard tierods, it has a much stronger effect than it does with heims. Ekstensive and distinct fabrications(http://customgm.com/products-vendor...distinct-fabrications-out-mckinney-texas.html give account for this.

As long as the camber curve is somewhere between 2* to 5* and the tierod is running parallel with the lower arm the toe will stay very close to alignment specs through the majority of travel.

If you drive a bagged truck at -5* or +3*, the tires are already getting wore irregularly anyway and that person probably doesn't give a shit about it anyway.
 
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Brett. Im wondering what tou thought on the angal of my upprr. Dropped 3 with 2" belltech spindle and 1"mcg coil. Upper almost seems parallel with ground.
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Dont mind the dirtyness haven't had time to clean it.
 
Nope haven't done it yet. But I was just wondering if I would need them. But it is pulling to the right . Im going to take it in sometime during the week.
 
Nope haven't done it yet. But I was just wondering if I would need them. But it is pulling to the right . Im going to take it in sometime during the week.

bushings and alignment kits are only necessary if you can't get the truck into the alignment specs with factory adjustment. being as you're only 3" drop with coils and spindles. you shouldn't anything.
 
Brett, I am contemplating heims once again, and uniballs. I have to wait until I get the truck back to test it out and see if anything further is needed. But when I did the swap, my ball joints already felt like they were getting sloppy. They are maybe a year old, if that, and have less than 10k miles on them. My Moog TRE's are always shot, I'm on my third set since I owned the truck.

I think I am going to buy the heims at least, and warranty out my TRE's and then sell them on here or locally.
 
Brett, I am contemplating heims once again, and uniballs. I have to wait until I get the truck back to test it out and see if anything further is needed. But when I did the swap, my ball joints already felt like they were getting sloppy. They are maybe a year old, if that, and have less than 10k miles on them. My Moog TRE's are always shot, I'm on my third set since I owned the truck.

I think I am going to buy the heims at least, and warranty out my TRE's and then sell them on here or locally.

I have a set of sleeves already tapped and ready. the heims are a good investment for the long run and give finer adjustability than standard tierods. the upper uniballs however aren't so easily done since the arms have press in uppers.
 
Wanna know the good thing about that? I have a spare set of uppers. I could take them and have them swapped at a shop (lol, one that I can get in, and get out).

I don't know if I want to drill the spindles or not yet...
 
Well yeah, we've discussed those many times. I guess since there doesn't seem to be any cons with the adapters, I will go that route. PM me a price
 
it isn't going to do any to the heim. people damage the heim because they over work the hiem.
 
meaning what exactly? How does it get overworked?

and has anyone ever done anything to change out the inners?

My lower bj seems to be a bit sloppy, the uppers were decent. Everything was installed maybe a year ago, and have less than 10k miles, but I can't keep shit from wearing out. Should I flip my upper control arms?
 
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meaning what exactly? How does it get overworked?

heims have a certain degree they can move. some people run heims without the heims spacers and that takes away a ton of that movement. on your static truck, you won't even get close to this, but you will still be using the heim spacers.

Different size heims have different degrees of movement. Making sure the heim has enough degrees of movement and that you vehicle is cambering properly are two very important aspects when deciding on the heims you need for an air ride vehicle, since the suspension travels so much. most people do not understand suspension geometry or the reasoning for using spacers to offset the heim and in turn, tear the heim itself apart.

yes, you should flip your uppers, they relieve a ton of stress on both the uppers when you get passed 4" drop
 
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ffr fabrications makes and entire inner and outer tierod replacement that runs about $300. its designed for lifted vehicles but there beens a couple people running them on stock and lowered applications
Tony@ffrfabications.com
408-295-5674