Search results

Can't you see it? I guess it just takes imagination. Soon.

Hydro assist is the only way to roll. I put it on my Dodge to keep the load off the steering box. Really takes away the sloppy feel of wide tires.

They're a good axle, just have to run adapters or a SD rear end too and buy new wheels. Radius arms work for moderate travel without any serious caster change, especially with the reasonable length arms they come with. Carli has longer plate units out for more. I saw Jason at PacFab was working...

The biggest issue with front leaf springs using a rear shackle is the inherent geometry issue running big travel numbers and the wrap that comes from the flexibility of the locating members. Keeping drive shafts alive and vibration free is a pain and expensive. For moderate travel they work...

They do indeed. The VFD showed up at work this morning however.

Motor and pulley showed up last week. Nice to have some more power and to have a well sealed motor. I haven't been able to make any progress on the saw otherwise due to some other projects. I was finally swapping the cam in my truck, which I've been wanting to do for years. My wife...

Ayup, only makes the most sense being able to go over 300% faster and loosing torque from the motor as you wind the rpm down. Might as well give it the most mechanical advantage you can and then just crank the speed if you really need it.

Yea, grabbed another 4 pole (1725rpm @ 60hz) motor like the original. This one is just twice the rated horsepower (more like another 38% power due to rating changes) and happens to be washdown rated as well as being a TEFC motor. Still a 56 frame motor. I need to get another 4 step cone pulley...

Just snagged a 1hp 3ph Marathon washdown motor and a Westinghouse VFD with 110vac input to run this thing. Now just to verify belt size when I get home and get a new pulley to match the bigger 5/8" motor shaft.

This truck is coming apart when the shop gets built and getting a replacement tube chassis for a lot of the parts. It's never going to see a full frame built for it.

Yes, I think a set of screw legs is going to be the best way to go about it. I thought about a cam style floor lock, which would be quick, but I don't know how easy it would be to use the saw in that configuration. I got the lower blade guide cleaned up and reassembled. I also got the...

I got annoyed at the frame cracking and the lower link mounts as a result tearing off and rebuilt some things: Started by cutting out the lower edge of the frame to save some weight:hahano: I cut some 2x2 .188w box I had left over from a side job and drilled it for some sleeves I welded...

It's going to remain on casters, I just haven't built the lifting legs. Wheels are too handy not to have when my material work size varies so widely. I dug into the upper wheel tension and tilt assembly. The bearings have been replaced in it's lifetime with SKF units and then green locktited...

As the heavy parts that had been repainted started to pile up I knew it was time to figure out a mobile base for the saw. I could have purchased a $120 adjust-to-fit base that would accept the weight of the saw but I just couldn't bring myself to do it. We had a pile of scrap and drops at...

Wire wheeled the body. Took a good bit of time, and it wasn't 100% bare metal, but I'm comfortable that it was a good surface for primer. Red oxide primer for years of paint adhesion. 3 coats later. I don't think they're going to be much help this time around. The saw is 75 years old...

I got back to this in the last few weeks. I had to finish wire wheeling the base plates, which took forever, I really need to find a blaster locally. Then I painted a primer coat and two coats of machinery grey.

Yes. 1-12 is UNF and 1-8 is UNC, and are the two standards. You very well could have a 1-14, but I would check it with a thread file or thread gauge before you commit to the tap. McMaster is pretty much an industry staple and their returns are very easy, but you burn a lot of time shipping back...

McMaster has carbon steel hand taps in both 1" UNC and UNF for ~$18/pc. Should do hundreds of holes in HDPE before wearing out.

Buy an ASMT574 (typ black oxide socket head cap screw) in the 1" pitch you need with enough unthreaded shank to get through your material. Take a pedestal grinder or an angle grinder and put a shallow taper in the leading 3/4-1" of the thread. Then take a cutoff wheel and make 4 cuts...

Trailer broke on the way home from Pismo too. The only expensive thing so far has proven to be the new trailer tire and wheel out on 80. $280 made me kick myself for forgetting my second trailer spare. Yea, it's not the most exciting. I don't usually bring it out, but with the bent rear...