cmatt

New Member
Feb 22, 2013
19
2
3
I chose to level my 1/2 ton NBS 4x4 with Ford Keys and Bilstein shocks. I had to have it driveable during the week, able to tow properly and go to the camp with ease.

First, I'll cover installing the torsion bar keys.

You'll need a set of Ford keys
SierraSuspension003.jpg

SierraSuspension002.jpg


Then locate the cross member where the stock keys are located
SierraSuspension004.jpg


Always observe caution labels
SierraSuspension007.jpg


Mount the torsion bar unloading tool like so. Then use it to take the pressure of the bolt so it can be removed along with the mount it sits in.
SierraSuspension015.jpg

SierraSuspension016.jpg

SierraSuspension005.jpg


Once that's done, you may have to strike the key to break it loose from the torsion bar. Then, slide the torsion bar forward to allow the key to fall out.

Here's some comparison pics of the two keys and how they sit in the cross member.
SierraSuspension010.jpg

SierraSuspension009.jpg

SierraSuspension012.jpg

SierraSuspension011.jpg

SierraSuspension013.jpg


At this point, you'll have to do the fine tuning to get it to the height/ride quality you want. Be sure to try and keep the number of turns on the adjuster bolts the same. Then measure your fender height. Measure from the bottom of the wheel to the fender lip.

Here's what my unloading tool looked like when I finished. At one point, I thought I had stripped the threads.
SierraSuspension014.jpg


I'll cover the shocks in my next post.
 

cmatt

New Member
Feb 22, 2013
19
2
3
For the shocks, I elected to go with Bilstein 5100's. C153 for the front and D147 for the rear.
SierraSuspension023.jpg


And yes, I am aware of the application that is printed on the box for the rears. Evidently, Bilstein used the shock for 1500 and 2500 applications.
5100apps-june2008.jpg


Here's what you start with in stock form.
SierraSuspension020.jpg


I began by loosening the lower nut (21mm).
SierraSuspension021.jpg

And then removing the upper nut (15mm). You may have to take a crescent wrench and hold the top of the threaded rod to keep it from spinning as you remove the nut.
SierraSuspension022.jpg


Once removed, you can compare the two.
SierraSuspension024.jpg

SierraSuspension025.jpg

I did notice the bushings didn't seem to be in too good a shape.
SierraSuspension029.jpg

SierraSuspension030.jpg


When installing the new hardware/bushings, mount them like so.
SierraSuspension026.jpg

SierraSuspension027.jpg

The parts in my hand go on top of the shock mount on the frame.
SierraSuspension028.jpg


Stand back and admire.
SierraSuspension031.jpg


Oh, and look what I found. Looks like some new Goodridge lines are in store.
SierraSuspension032.jpg


The rear shocks are similar. Just two 21mm nuts/bolts each. Obviously, you need to support the frame and take some pressure off the shocks with a jack mounted under the rear diff.
SierraSuspension033.jpg

SierraSuspension034.jpg

SierraSuspension035.jpg

SierraSuspension037.jpg

SierraSuspension039.jpg
 

Dakota

Dat Static 4wd
Mar 12, 2012
15,997
1,041
113
texarkana
Also if your local auto parts store doesn't have a torsion bar tool (none of the stores in town here have them) you can rent a balljoint press tool, works just as good and is still safe to use..some people use c clamps but that isn't very wise at all
 

Tylers88

3 GM's and a Jeep
Apr 16, 2012
6,949
494
83
33
Clarion, IA
I just did keys/blocks/shocks and came across a northern state problem, my keys were rusted on to much to just beat the hell out of them with a BFH. I used a propane plumers torch to heat the key, I heated a little and I would touch various spots on the bar to make sure I wasnt heating the bar to much.
 
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