Smith's 1973 Nova Custom

[slow4.7on20s]

So do you think it warrants an entire floor pan to get rid of rust in this case?

I agree with you on wanting to do it right though, but as mentioned I've read where people have had large success on panels with rust treatments/encapsulators and just thought that with that things might be okay which is why that was my initial thoughts as I have the abilities to be able to do that whereas Id have to get the welding machine up to par and make sure I could use it or pay someone. Before any of this was applied Id for sure use a wire wheel, etc to get down as far to bare metal as I could.

I've also seen where companies like por15 make a por putty and other kits/products for things such as small holes which is another thing that peaked my interest. I do know that on one fender I'll have to get a patch panel welded I believe.

I don't see any places in that picture that require a new replacement panel but that's just my opinion

 

[Graystone]

It is far from complete replacement.

But keep in mind that the floor sees a lot of moisture. Do you want to be doing the same thing in a couple years but now have to do more and try removing the other fixes you do now?

 

[Smith]

I don't see any places in that picture that require a new replacement panel but that's just my opinion

Nor do I, just wanted to ask. When I think panel replacement I think this lol

(disclaimer, not my car)

It is far from complete replacement.

But keep in mind that the floor sees a lot of moisture. Do you want to be doing the same thing in a couple years but now have to do more and try removing the other fixes you do now?

Nope, not at all. Would like to one and done it especially since I plan on keeping the car permanently.

 

[Tylers88]

Maybe a couple small patches in the spots with a few pin holes grouped then just spot weld to fix other pin holes, I wouldn't do complete panels but I would do more than just coating it. The small patches, good rust converter and good undercoating will do just fine and last a long time But that's just

 

[Khaos]

If you're planning on keeping it for good, I'd just do new panels. That way you know they're good, it's done right, and you don't have to worry about it.

The thing about rust and holes: they spread. Get rid of them completely imo.

 

[Smith]

Maybe a couple small patches in the spots with a few pin holes grouped then just spot weld to fix other pin holes, I would do complete panels but I would do more than just coating it. The small patches, good rust converter and good undercoating will do just fine and last a long time But that's just

I'm going to assume you meant wouldn't** and agree with you on your comments.

If you're planning on keeping it for good, I'd just do new panels. That way you know they're good, it's done right, and you don't have to worry about it.

The thing about rust and holes: they spread. Get rid of them completely imo.

I just don't think it really needs them and it's something I'd rather not spend money on unless I have to. Yes, I understand from a forever standpoint it's good insurance and not a bad idea but also the car will probably never live outside again and once the windows/wherever the leak was coming from is sealed it should never collect water like that again.

Like mentioned, I'm researching some of the popular converters/systems, etc, and going to try and decide what I want to do for now. Interior needs to be coated with something reguardless of rust situation.

 

[CammedVmax]

Patch the holes, weld them. Practice some first if you've done it before you can do it again. Then coat the thing and call it good imo.


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[fortplainman]

always see those muscle car tv shows grabbing some drop in floor pans to use or cut out what they need of them.

 

[Tylers88]

I'm going to assume you meant wouldn't** and agree with you on your comments.

Yep meant wouldn't, will add make your patches bigger than you think you'll need so you know you are into good metal.

 

[Graystone]

Yep meant wouldn't, will add make your patches bigger than you think you'll need so you know you are into good metal.

This. Rust is a whore

 

[Smith]

Patch the holes, weld them. Practice some first if you've done it before you can do it again. Then coat the thing and call it good imo.


Sent from Tapashit

For sure, I'm sure I can get the hang of it again since I had a few classes and was decent in high school. Sad thing is I barely remember anything/have never used this welder so I need to look into what it needs.

always see those muscle car tv shows grabbing some drop in floor pans to use or cut out what they need of them.

True, not buying those though so I need to see what gauge metal/what I need to buy to cut out some patch panels.

Yep meant wouldn't, will add make your patches bigger than you think you'll need so you know you are into good metal.

10-4. I've seen that quoted elsewhere when people talk about panel replacement.

This. Rust is a whore

It tis, a nasty one at that.

I guess I need to start researching/seeing what all this welding machine needs and then what gauge metal I need to get for patch panels.

 

[Graystone]

Depends on what ga your floor is. But I would guess around 14.

Edit: 16 is more likely. 14 is pretty thick.

 

[fortplainman]

True, not buying those though so I need to see what gauge metal/what I need to buy to cut out some patch panels.

im sure year one/classic industries etc have descriptions online or you can give them a call to get part info. im sure you aren't looking for something more than function since the carpet is over it and from the sounds of it your going to get it coated again underneath.

 

[Smith]

Depends on what ga your floor is. But I would guess around 14.

Edit: 16 is more likely. 14 is pretty thick.

Appreciate it, looked and answers from people ranged from 16-20 but I found a few replacement panels that said 18-20 in the description. Classic industries didn't have theirs in the description and Year One stated 20 so I think I might go with 20 since Year One is reputable.

im sure year one/classic industries etc have descriptions online or you can give them a call to get part info. im sure you aren't looking for something more than function since the carpet is over it and from the sounds of it your going to get it coated again underneath.

Exactly, want it to be nice but it doesn't have to be a full out 100 point full resto. Car is going to be a fun driver and not a trailer queen, want it to be nice as possible but still within' reason. Year one had the gauge in the description so appreciate you thinking about that.

Them and classic industries actually sell the patch panels decently priced but shipping isn't always cheap and I think I want to just try patching them with 20 gauge steel. Talked to a some friends and one of them might help me do some cutting and welding in a few weeks so hopefully we can get those spots knocked out.

Just need some things for the welding machine setup if he can't/doesn't bring his down and I'm short on cash as I mentioned I'm still paying for the car. Lol.

 

[Graystone]

I would get the thicker or the pans if possible. Less flex. However the pans used in my 70 are from classic industry. But that was 15 years ago and they did not offer full floors.

 

[Tylers88]

I will say coming from my body guy, yearone panels are not as thick as stock, he says close but not same

 

[CammedVmax]

Floor on korbins c10 was 16 gauge iirc


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[Smith]

I would get the thicker or the pans if possible. Less flex. However the pans used in my 70 are from classic industry. But that was 15 years ago and they did not offer full floors.

I will say coming from my body guy, yearone panels are not as thick as stock, he says close but not same

Floor on korbins c10 was 16 gauge iirc


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Sorry, just realized I never replied fellas! Appreciate the input.

Plan is to try and patch them with some metal. Mine and a friends schedule hasn't quite lined up for us to buy some metal and do some welding though so for now she sits as she's sat since the last update minus a front tire that keeps leaking out air.

 

[Huck]

Yep meant wouldn't, will add make your patches bigger than you think you'll need so you know you are into good metal.

This, you always want to go several inches past where the effected areas are in all directions because although it's not through but in a couple spots, the surrounding metal is thin and weak.

Depends on what ga your floor is. But I would guess around 14.

Edit: 16 is more likely. 14 is pretty thick.

18-20 is generally what was OEM. You know how quality control was back then. Our replacement panels are all 18 gauge, they're plenty stout.

im sure year one/classic industries etc have descriptions online or you can give them a call to get part info. im sure you aren't looking for something more than function since the carpet is over it and from the sounds of it your going to get it coated again underneath.

^See above. Year one gets panels from us (not all of their panels but some, they buy from several sources) so most likely they'll be 18ga. I totally understand the budget fix, but in the long run I'd definitely cut them out and put a real replacement panel in there. We sell halves for that car, not sure what shipping would be but give us a call and see. It'd be much easier to just do it once.

Car came out great with the polish though! Looking forward to progress once you can spend some more moniez on it

 

[Smith]

Appreciate the reply Huck

Haven't had any time or money to spend on the car. Mainly just been trying to organize thoughts/possible plans and still have no clue as far as drive train, coilovers or on air, etc. Only concrete plans are to do floor repair, fix leak around glasses, get drivetrain, do suspension and brakes, etc in that order to get it running and driving and enjoy it a little bit before doing body work and repair.

Need to get with Angelo on a render so I can dream ahead. Found this one online....

Anyone reading this feel free to drop any pictures of 73-74 novas or ideas/threads for anything else.