flex vs PC

Anyone here move from the PC to the flex,

im tempted to because i hear the flex makes detailing results better and faster, even though its not as stupid proff as the PC.

If you have a flex, do you find yourself using your PC at all besides for a applicator for glaze or sealant?

Thanks.
 
i think its a normal orbital, 8mm orbit at 3200-9600 opm and 160-480 rpm under no load iirc. the only time i use my pc is for glazes and sealants just like you asked.

your sig still fucking cracks me up, tpb is funny as hell
 
I have a PC looking into getting a Flex. I will keep my PC around. If you are doing say most GM clear you wont have issues with it finishing down with the flex but say you do a honda with very soft clear you might have some issues having it finish down correctly depending on the polish you are using. Thats what nice about a PC it is less of a headache on the soft irritating paints.
 
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K, so if its a normal rotary buffer.

Much quicker correction, and much better results. I never use a PC anymore, and if I do its only with a blue pad to apply sealants. I used a PC for probably 5 years, and switched to rotarys a few years back...cant beleive i wasted 5 years with a PC.

Flex is also sooo light and well balanced compared to my Porter Cable rotary and Makita Rotary. Weights a big deal, especially when your dealing with 20+ hours of correction
 
K, so if its a normal rotary buffer.

Much quicker correction, and much better results. I never use a PC anymore, and if I do its only with a blue pad to apply sealants. I used a PC for probably 5 years, and switched to rotarys a few years back...cant beleive i wasted 5 years with a PC.

Flex is also sooo light and well balanced compared to my Porter Cable rotary and Makita Rotary. Weights a big deal, especially when your dealing with 20+ hours of correction

its not a rotary, its a D.A. orbital.

i prefer my rotary over it anyways, depends what you get used to and like
 
doing 20 hrs of correcting on a big truck like mine with all the vertical panels sucks a fat one being the PC with the weight. from the main reason i see people switching is for cars that are being corrected for the first time/after a long time of no TLC to get it done quicker but also a higher correction rate. the PC is always good for maintenance and for just keeping it with that glass finish status.

so in short:
flex for bigger correction jobs. higher correction to time ratio.
PC for maintenance on corrected vehicles.
if you have to get one get the PC to start out, then upgrade to a flex and follow the above ratio. either one you wont be disappointing.
 
doing 20 hrs of correcting on a big truck like mine with all the vertical panels sucks a fat one being the PC with the weight. from the main reason i see people switching is for cars that are being corrected for the first time/after a long time of no TLC to get it done quicker but also a higher correction rate. the PC is always good for maintenance and for just keeping it with that glass finish status.

so in short:
flex for bigger correction jobs. higher correction to time ratio.
PC for maintenance on corrected vehicles.
if you have to get one get the PC to start out, then upgrade to a flex and follow the above ratio. either one you wont be disappointing.

Rotary>Flex>PC. flex would take a lot longer to do what a rotary would in the same amount of time. flex is good for low cut/finish polishing imo. i wouldnt use it to wool or compound a highly oxidized clear, nor would i use it on a single stage paintjob that is in extremely bad shape
 
PC is a lot cheaper and still gives you good results over hand polishing. Especially if all your looking to achieve is 90% perfect paint.
 
mr 90%, we are a bunch of 110%'ers in here
dodgy.gif
 
It's impossible for me to get 110 without extensive bodywork and a re spray. But I can get rid of all the light scratches and swirls so that's why I said 90 for me because that's what I am after