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Ite.

Just a quick plumbing question. For just the rear, I'll need 4 valves, and 2 check valves? And if I were to run 2 compressors; I'd need to go ahead and get a 9 port 5 gallon tank? Or just a simple 5 gallon tank and add another tank if I ever do the front? Or is it just preference?

Either 4 valves or two three position valves, two check valves, u only need 7 ports max on a tank really, one for each corner one for each compressor... But not really necessary and a drain. You don't really need more than 5 gallons either IMO if u run a 200 psi system


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I was calculating one for each corner (4), compressors (2), drain (1), and tank pressure for gauge (1) just to be safe.

A 165/200 pressure switch would be ideal then?
 
U don't need a port just for tank pressure, and yea more pressure means your holding more air so if your lines tank compressors and everything can handle it 165/200 is better IMO


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My list thus far;

Viair 380 dual pack w/relays
160/200 pressure switch
AVS 7 rocker
(4) SMC 3/8 valves
(2) check valves
Airlift single needle
Airlift dual needle
50' 1/4" line (gauges)
(2) 2600 bags (undecided on brand)
(?) Ft of 3/8 line
AVS 5 gallon 9 port tank
Shit-ton of fittings
Shocks

Trying to leave things open ended for later doing the front.

Still undecided on link set up. Prob tri-4.

Am I missing anything?
 
Last edited:
My list thus far;

Viair 380 dual pack w/relays
160/200 pressure switch
AVS 7 rocker
(4) SMC 3/8 valves
(2) check valves
Airlift single needle
Airlift dual needle
50' 1/4" line (gauges)
(2) 2600 bags (undecided on brand)
(?) Ft of 3/8 line
AVS 5 gallon 9 port tank
Shit-ton of fittings
Shocks

Trying to leave things open ended for later doing the front.

Still undecided on link set up. Prob tri-4.

Am I missing anything?
you shouldn't need near that much line and what is the 1/4" line for anyway
 
Well it'd be a lot easier to snake 1/8" through the cab ams dash versus 1/4". But since the gauges are 1/4" I just went ahead and priced that. 98% of my list and prices were gotten off of thorbros. They seem to be the cheapest. And I'd like to keep most of it with one vendor so I can save on shipping.
 
On a scale of one to ten, how technically difficult is it to install a KP weld-in tri4? I'm talking about lining everything up properly. Or would it be worth it to spend a few hundred more on a KP bolt-on parallel 4?

Would I be able to keep my stock gas tank location with both? I know the tank has to be raised.
 
A family friend is a world class welder but has never done anything like this. So it would pretty much be me telling him what to do. Or I could just get a bolt on.
 
You should be able to get it glued in place so he can finish weld it if you have a mig


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Its really not hard at all. Like really. And when I say manifold valves I mean accuair, ridetech, etc etc. They are physically built into a manifold. Super easy and clean.

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Its really not hard at all. Like really. And when I say manifold valves I mean accuair, ridetech, etc etc. They are physically built into a manifold. Super easy and clean.

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Dnw cause length of airline between valves and bag, but that's personal opinion


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Dnw cause length of airline between valves and bag, but that's personal opinion


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What's it matter? I see no probs bruh.

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I have a total of like 4' of air line that can get ripped for me to lose a corner with those manifolds u have 4' of air line that can get ripped and 30' that can't get ripped to lose a corner. The individuals valves it's easier to lose the tank but you should still be able to drive without the tank most setups it's hard to drive without a single corner


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Youre gonna need to re explain that to me like I'm stupid.

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