Tune gone after amp install?
- Thread starter Cleanoh4
- Start date
you dont need a 200 amp alt. 105 will work just fine, or get a 140 or w/e it is. upgrade your battery if anything. i support well over 3000watts on a stock 105 with xspower d3400. big 3 also will help charging if you have that much draw from your system but i cant believe that to be the problem
This company sells the 200 amp for $135. I recommend it because it costs little to no extra money over a stock replacement alt so it's a no brainer. But yes a good battery and the Big 3 makes a huge difference. I'm running a Sundown SAX1200D for one SD2-10 with stock alt. and the interstate battery the truck had in it when I bought it a few years ago, and stock wires and all, no big 3. Haven't had the slightest dim of anything.
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thats fine, but unless the alt isn't charging correctly, no need to replace with that system setup. go get it tested somewhere first before even thinking about it
That's just it. If there was dimming or flickering, I'd honestly be more convinced, but there isn't the truck just doesn't feel as responsive as it did before. So would the added draw of what would widely be considered a small amp be enough to push it over its limit? Would pulling the fuse in the amp "restore" this power, proving its in the generator?
Big 3 has been on my to do list for some time and this maybe push me to do it.
The battery is about 4yrs old and it's ccas have dipped to where it should probably be replaced soon, but I've had no weak starts so it hasn't been much of a concern.
Big 3 has been on my to do list for some time and this maybe push me to do it.
The battery is about 4yrs old and it's ccas have dipped to where it should probably be replaced soon, but I've had no weak starts so it hasn't been much of a concern.
Alt was bought new less than a year ago
Any ideas? I'm taking everything into consideration and am only going off the alt being the issue bc that's what bbp said would likely be the cause.
I had that 200A, and big 3 on my 04. Had a second battery, but never made it to installing. I have all Ideas that alt doesn't do a true 200a for the price, but it did help, especially with the e fan upgrade as well
When you flash your ECM with a tune, its basically a new operating system(sorta). It doesn't just sit on top of your old tune, but replaces all its perimeters. Even if it was disconnected, you wouldn't just loose the tune.
Have you put a volt meter off the alternator or evne the battery post so see its charging output?
Have you put a volt meter off the alternator or evne the battery post so see its charging output?
As I mentioned, alt can cause issues, but usually noticeable at idle. I have seen folks have major problems just from adding efans, due to lack of elect power.
Could even be something as simple as a bad tank of gas, dirty throttle body or MAF.
Sent from a jelly bean.
Could even be something as simple as a bad tank of gas, dirty throttle body or MAF.
Sent from a jelly bean.
Maybe the added weight of the subs/amp/wires feels like it's slowing you down? Lol
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http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/showthread.php/8370-What-Size-Alternator-Do-I-Need
So according to this, the 20 amp fused amplifier and 10 amp fuse on my double din equaling 30 amps added load leave my 105 amp alternator 10 amps short under 85% draw or 30 amps if calculated at the full 105 amp draw. Noting I didn't add in the inline fuse on the amp power line from the battery.(not sure if I should)
So that being said a 145amp will work as long as I don't add any more fused electrical.
So according to this, the 20 amp fused amplifier and 10 amp fuse on my double din equaling 30 amps added load leave my 105 amp alternator 10 amps short under 85% draw or 30 amps if calculated at the full 105 amp draw. Noting I didn't add in the inline fuse on the amp power line from the battery.(not sure if I should)
So that being said a 145amp will work as long as I don't add any more fused electrical.
Step 1: you power wire should be fused without a doubt. If a short happens are an abnormal load, it will blow the fuse on the amp. Put a 20-25 amp fuse on the power wire under the hood, and then see if you need a bigger alt.
Keep in mind, the 200A on eBay costs the same or a little more than the 145A IIRC. The charging can't be TOO good.
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Should have clarified, I didn't add the fuse on the power line into my equation, as I figured it wasn't drawing any power but acting more as an overload protection, with the power draw being at the amplifier(20amp fused)
And that is likely the route I would take. Even if it isn't a "true" 200a it would be more than sufficient or my needs and as stated, there is no downside to having more.
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Oh okay. Just curious, how many amps is the fuse you have under the hood?
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1 problem you have is that's wayyyy too big. The fuse under the hood should equal(or be at most 10A more than) the sum of the amperage of the fuses on your amp.
My amp has 4 30 amps fuses which = 120A so I have a 120A fuse under the hood.
I believe you said your amp has a 20A fuse so you need a 20-30A under the hood.
With 100A fuse and the amp only drawing ~20A, you can actually burn the wire over time.
I see this way too much. Sure a lot of amp kits come with 100A fuse, but most people don't need that.
I've seen problems with this first hand when my buddy's amp kept cutting out last year and I found out he had 2 30s on the amp and 100A fuse under the hood. We put a 60A fuse under the hood, problem free.
Change that first and then see if it still feels sluggish.
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THIS^ some of the best, most coherent advice I've ever seen given. Listen to it, make those changes and report back :shake: