Idk dude they sure ain't on the bushing anymore and the bracket definitely shows signs of dragging
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- Thread starter Jared
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Idk dude they sure ain't on the bushing anymore and the bracket definitely shows signs of dragging
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The fact of the matter is its a design flaw they shouldn't be on the ground side when the vehicle is in the lowered position. I didn't install my shit wrong guy
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Bohall put 2 and 2 together
2link+pan gives your offcenter and pinion
Get pics billy ive seen alot of kp6's
All my friends run them. Im the only one who went with something different and i think they are pretty impressive besides the price and they all upgraded to the watts.
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2link+pan gives your offcenter and pinion
Get pics billy ive seen alot of kp6's
All my friends run them. Im the only one who went with something different and i think they are pretty impressive besides the price and they all upgraded to the watts.
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I'll get pics in the morning. The fact is there's no way to put the canti brackets and bars on without the zerk being down. They shouldn't b there with the vehicle down namesayin
On the note of the kp panhard. I have way too much thread sticking out on my heim as is. With the way it is right now my driver tire rubs the fender and on the passenger side I have a bolt rubbing on the notch. I'm going to extend the pan hard bar, but for a kit I shouldn't have to.
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On the note of the kp panhard. I have way too much thread sticking out on my heim as is. With the way it is right now my driver tire rubs the fender and on the passenger side I have a bolt rubbing on the notch. I'm going to extend the pan hard bar, but for a kit I shouldn't have to.
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Dragging ass down face up can expose those bushings billy is talking about to the ground. Ive drug mine accidentally a few times when I was ridin cali, havent done it since I got rid of those awful KP shocks, gotta be a bit careful. Drag flat or dont drag. I can get a pic if you aint buyin what we are sellin.
I'm running the panhard because I got the panhard and watts with my setup but the watts was missing the frame mounts, in my hurry to get it out of the shop I just ran the panhard. I'll be switching to the watts and eventually going to a sliding wishbone. There is no reason you shouldn't be able to run a panhard is is ideal not at all but it's still better than a 2 link
The issue is those brackets are lower than the bumper that's why that shit scrapes... But I'd still have the zerk fittings if they weren't on the bottom
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I ride cali'd out because my front isn't tubbed yet and I can't ride low up front yet
The issue is those brackets are lower than the bumper that's why that shit scrapes... But I'd still have the zerk fittings if they weren't on the bottom
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Theres a million opinions, not than anyone of them is particularly right.
Theres absolutely nothing wrong with a 3 link with a wishbone, built and installed properly they are one of the best riding setups, simple, clean, they work.. the reason why 75% of fab shops put it on a lot of builds.
bolt on kits are great if you dont have much fabrication skill or experience.
hydrolic line is great, but if ran properly plastic airline is plenty durable.. i know a lot of people that run it on dailys and never have issues.
front like brett said, no need to spend big bucks if youre on small wheels.
2 links are not my favorite , but they do work depending on how much adjustability you want driving.. some of the big shops run them on their dailys and they know more about air suspension then 90% of people on here so they arent that terrible lol.
all that being said its only my opinion, dont mean everyone should follow it!
Theres absolutely nothing wrong with a 3 link with a wishbone, built and installed properly they are one of the best riding setups, simple, clean, they work.. the reason why 75% of fab shops put it on a lot of builds.
bolt on kits are great if you dont have much fabrication skill or experience.
hydrolic line is great, but if ran properly plastic airline is plenty durable.. i know a lot of people that run it on dailys and never have issues.
front like brett said, no need to spend big bucks if youre on small wheels.
2 links are not my favorite , but they do work depending on how much adjustability you want driving.. some of the big shops run them on their dailys and they know more about air suspension then 90% of people on here so they arent that terrible lol.
all that being said its only my opinion, dont mean everyone should follow it!
Without a doubt, I want great info, great insight, good opinions and mainly facts.
I know that seems crazy, but if you really think about, step back, and give an unbiased reply, it could help. I have no fucking clue what I need or want. But I do know for damn sure, I don't want to fix shit later on down the road. I've convinced my wife already, and things are starting to fall in place. This will not happen over night...
I know that seems crazy, but if you really think about, step back, and give an unbiased reply, it could help. I have no fucking clue what I need or want. But I do know for damn sure, I don't want to fix shit later on down the road. I've convinced my wife already, and things are starting to fall in place. This will not happen over night...
Are you trying to do all the work yourself Jared? Or are you willing to have a shop do some
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You're only option for the front is Ekstensiv or MMW if you don't want camber. That narrows it down pretty much.
And I think Brett pointed out mmw top of the line is about the only one ud want
Edit : twas Peyton
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When dealing with PTC and plastic line, in places where climate change are drastic, the plastic can give people fits. water in the lines getting in the fitting connections and freezing. this is why I do not run it. it's happened multiple times to me before on my s-10 and thats why I stay away from it unless people just really don't want to pay for the hydraulic hose.
a 2 link is not terrible if the suspension is kept within a smaller range of motion. the 2 link is a cheap way out. If i was building a truck for people just to look at and to trailor to a show everytime I went, yeah, I'd throw a 2 link on it and be done.
I will gaurantee this, no 2 link will ever be driven on for over 40,000 miles and then take a drive at every height and not have any shake from the driveshaft.
If you just want to lay your truck out and can get away with driving a few inches off the ground everywhere you drive it, run the 2 link with a panhard bar.
If you want to actually want to a full range of motion suspension that will last as long as your truck and can be driven from coast to coast without fear of irregular wear and tear, then step up to a 3 link or 4 link.
also don't forget that with a 2 link, the only thing holding your axle to the link bars is u-bolts. these u bolts are also the only thing keeping the rear end aligned so you're not doglegging down the road.
a 2 link is not terrible if the suspension is kept within a smaller range of motion. the 2 link is a cheap way out. If i was building a truck for people just to look at and to trailor to a show everytime I went, yeah, I'd throw a 2 link on it and be done.
I will gaurantee this, no 2 link will ever be driven on for over 40,000 miles and then take a drive at every height and not have any shake from the driveshaft.
If you just want to lay your truck out and can get away with driving a few inches off the ground everywhere you drive it, run the 2 link with a panhard bar.
If you want to actually want to a full range of motion suspension that will last as long as your truck and can be driven from coast to coast without fear of irregular wear and tear, then step up to a 3 link or 4 link.
also don't forget that with a 2 link, the only thing holding your axle to the link bars is u-bolts. these u bolts are also the only thing keeping the rear end aligned so you're not doglegging down the road.